The Flowers Of Gardening

One of the joys of gardening is the occasional unexpected success after consistent failure. I felt very dashing when I bought two pleiones, Pleione pricei and P. formosana. Most people put these near-hardy orchids in a cool house, but I have no cool house, or any other greenhouse, and I thought my climate was mild enough for a gamble so I planted them in the peat garden. I cover them each winter with a pane of glass because I understand it is winter wet, not cold, that they dislike. Each year they have thrown up leaves and it seemed that they were increasing satisfactorily, but after one very wet winter I could see no sign of the green pseudo-bulbs, which cluster like a nest of eggs just above the ground. Gentle proddings brought no comfort so I feared I had lost my gamble. Then one day I was strolling along the bank opposite my little peat garden when I suddenly saw an exotic bloom poised self-consciously among the heathers and azaleas as if it had slipped off the ample bosom of a magnate's lady. Since then I have these delightful little orchids in several other places, in greensand under a north wall, and on an easterly ledge of a rock garden in ordinary soil, and I have added P. limprichtii to the other two. I don't get as many flowers as my friends who grow them in pans in the alpine houses, but I always get a few and they increase steadily, and I could divide them if I had the nerve.

I suppose Arum creticum should not be put in the same category as pleiones, but for some of us it has the same fascination; in fact I like any arum. The one that grows on Crete has yellow flowers—not the bright yellow of lysichiturn but a luminous, very deep cream. I was told to put this plant in the hottest, driest place I had but I now discover this isn't necessary. In one garden I know it blooms equally well in a hot, sunny position and in the damp shade under trees.

It was in the same garden that I met the pretty pink and white form of °tabus (or Lathyrus) vernus. It is called 0. v. albo-roseum and makes a delightful foot-high dump for the spring rock garden. I have had the other forms of orobus for some time. The ordinary one has vetch-like flowers in violet-blue, 0. v. cyaneus has very bright blue flowers and there is also a good white. With them I grow the dwarf silver plant, Dogcnium hirsutum, which has silky leaves and tiny pink and white flowers all through the summer. This likes a hot, dry place and the orobus will grow anywhere.

Another plant that makes a happy companion for the orobus is the perennial Cheiranthus mutabilis, with flowers that can't decide whether they are purple or rose madder. The bronze and primrose wallflower Miss Hopton (or Wenlock Beauty) goes with almost anything and so does the very pale Erysimum capita/a. I find Cheirantbus Moonlight the most difficult wallflower to place as the flowers are deeper than the name suggests and they open from glossy brown buds. Harpur Crewe doesn't need companionship; that neat, bushy little plants should, I think, be planted by themselves in key positions where something attractive is needed all through the spring. This provides scented double blossoms in soft yellow from January to June, and off and on after that. Even without any flowers it is a shapely little bush with good foliage.

The "Prophet Flower", Arnebia echioides (macrotomia), is an unusual member of the borage family, with yellow flowers with a deep purple spot on each petal when it first opens. I have never succeeded with it and I wonder if it dislikes lime. I notice that nurseries charge up for it so it can't be as easy as most herbaceous plants.

Another rather different plant that is scarce and expensive is "Fair Maids of France" (or Kent), Ranunculus aconitifolius fi. I find this easier than amebia but it doesn't increase very fast, and as it disappears completely after flowering there is always the danger of it being damaged or disturbed. It is a delightful plant, about r a" high with white button flowers and dark, well-cut leaves.

Incarvilleas are other plants that go to ground and have been known to be put out of action while hiding. Incarvilleas are like nerines, so exotic-looking that one is always surprised to meet them in an ordinary garden. The incarvillea most usually seen is L delavayi, with large orchid-pink trumpets and delightful foliage. In L grandifiora the flowers are more deep pink than orchid. These flowers having disappeared from the garden a good many times, I now grow them in a raised bed with special snowdrops and fritillaries.

The dentarias have to be well labelled if one is not to damage their "coral" roots, which do look exactly like coral. Den/aria pinnata can have either white or pale mauve-pink flowers on 9" stems. These plants need a cool woodland position and so does Gillenia trifoliata, an 8" charmer with graceful foliage and butterfly flowers in pink and white all through the summer.

I find the running oenothera, 0 speciosa, does best with a little shade. It is unfortunately not completely hardy in a very hard winter, but quite dependable in ordinary weather. The large white flowers, with their prominent styles, do not shut during the day. They open pure white and fade to pink.

Trilliums, the "wood lilies" of North America, are not at all difficult to please if they have shade and a leafy soil. I grow mine on a bank under the shade of willows in ordinary soil and they come up faithfully every year, but! do not find they increase very quickly. They would do quite well between shrubs if the soil is enriched by humus and not allowed to dry out. The most beautiful is Trillium grandifiorum, with large, three-petalled white flowers on 9" stems. The dark crimson T. sessile is scented, and has mottled leaves, the white or pink flowers of T. cern:rum are nodding, and they are also nodding in T. sOlosum, the Rose Trillium, which has pink flowers. The painted trillium, T. undulatum, has white flowers with claret markings. Trilliums take a little time to settle down but once they start they flower regularly every year. Good cover is made by Mite/la breweri, which has small flat leaves and tiny green flowers.

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The Floral Variable Ratio Mark-Up

Variable ratio mark-up has different mark-ups depending upon two factors—the type of design or the type of flower and the labor required to design with it. Labor-intensive designs or flowers would have a higher mark-up.  The strength of the variable ratio mark-up is that the labor aspect of designing is included in the design. However, the planning for net profit is still a matter of guesswork. Another weakness may be the confusion of so many mark-ups. The owner can periodically post a retail price list with the varying mark-ups included (but not shown) without causing confusion to the employee.

                            PERCENTAGE MARK-UP

The percentage mark-up is a pricing method that plans for profit. The percentage mark-up method is the wholesale cost of goods divided by the cost of goods percentage as determined by the shop's financial statement. This pricing method requires the florist to analyze the business' financial records to determine the percentages of the four major aspects of gross sales. At first, this analysis may be time- consuming, but once completed, the percentage mark-up is easy to calculate.The four areas will vary somewhat from shop to shop. Gross sales are the total dollar amounts that the florist sells. Operating expenses include the costs of running the business, such as rent or costs of owning the building, salaries, selling costs, delivery costs, and administrative costs. The operating expenses may be lower if the florist owns the building, requiring no mortgage payment or rent. Labor is an operating expense that is calculated separately. Labor is the cost for the required time to design the specialized products that florists sell. Cost of goods is the cost of purchasing merchandise and materials that comprises the designs, plants, and giftware sold in a florist.

Now, how do these figures relate to pricing? The cost of goods used in a design is calculated as 30 percent of the design price. For each arrangement, 30 percent of the price will be the actual wholesale cost of the flowers, foliages, and supplies.

Let's use the vase arrangement in Figure. The wholesale cost of goods .To find the price, the cost of goods is divided by the cost of goods percentage. This method is also called the divisional percentage markup. Remember, the cost of goods is divided by the cost of goods percentage.

The strength of the percentage mark-up is the planning for profit and knowing the specific percentages for each category, including cost of goods, for the individual floral shop Although the preparation of this information may take some time, the effort will pay off with an efficient pricing system. A disadvantage is that the employee may not know wholesale prices of goods to make the calculations. However, the manager or owner could determine prices using this method for specials and for numerous commonly purchased designs, plants, and corsages. Planning for profit is profitable!

If the customer requests an arrangement for a specific amount, the price is multiplied by  to determine the cost of goods that can be used to make the arrangement. For example, a arrangement should have of wholesale costs in flowers, foliages, and supplies, including the vase.

A florist must decide which pricing method fits the management style and the type of operation. The method chosen should provide the owner with enough profit without charging exorbitant prices.

PRICING STRATEGIES

Pricing strategies are well-planned methods and practices of pricing to attract customers to the floral shop and to motivate them to buy the products, perhaps more than originally planned. Using pricing strategies can help to increase sales volume and gross sales.

                                       STRATEGIES TO ATTRACT CUSTOMERS

A good retailer is always thinking of ways to attract new customers to the floral shop. Advertising through window displays or print media can lure new buyers into the shop. Leader pricing, tie-in pricing, and advertised specials offering a good buy or a free item can bring new customers.

Leader Pricing

Leader pricing is a method of offering commonly purchased and recognizable items, such as carnations, daisies, roses, or special giftware, at a significantly reduced price compared to the competition. This strategy will attract new buyers and price-conscious customers and give the impression that all of the prices are more reasonable than the competition. The leader pricing method can be effectively used when good buys have been negotiated with trusted suppliers.

Multiple Unit Pricing

Multiple unit pricings is a strategy to encourage the customer to come to the shop and then buy more by offering price breaks for purchasing additional items. For example, one iris costs and three irises cost. The customer will feel that they are getting a lot for their money.

Advertised "end of the week" bouquet specials can encourage customers to stop by and pick up some flowers. Make (or purchase) cheerful mixes of flowers, give the bouquets a catchy title, and place the display in a prominent place to encourage the buyer. The single stems priced individually cost more than the mixture, which encourages the customer to buy the whole bunch.

A "buy one, get one free" special is another multiple unit pricing strategy. This method attracts customers to the shop because of the great bargains being advertised Plan ahead for this method and work with the suppliers to find some good flower buys. Use this strategy carefully so zhe shop will not develop a "discount store" image.

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The Floriculture Of Nutrition

Nutrition during production influences the rate of growth. It also affects the quality of foliage plants after they reach the consumers. One recommended fertilizer program consists of a constant feeding program. With every watering, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are provided. An alternative is to use a slow-release fertilizer in the growing media. Foliage plants grown in soilless medium require fertilizers containing micronutrients. The reason is soilless mix lacks the necessary micronutrients.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is the process in which a plant becomes accustomed to a new environment. The transition from a warm, humid, well-lit greenhouse to a cool, dry, and dim room in a building is stressful for most plants. A common reaction by a plant under stress from a new environment is to shed its leaves. Few plants demonstrate the shock of being moved as much as the weeping fig. A slight change in conditions causes it to shed most of its leaves.

Studies have shown that the plants that acclimatize the quickest are those grown under low light conditions and that receive light fertilization throughout production. Knowing this, growers can help prepare plants for their ultimate destination.

First, the light intensity given the plants can be reduced for two to six months prior to shipping. The length of time depends on the species. By reducing the light intensity, the plants get accustomed to lower light levels expected in their new home. Their leaves grow thinner, broader, and produce more chlorophyll for the manufacture of food.

Over fertilization during production lessens the plant's ability to acclimatize to a new surrounding. Fertilization stimulates growth. Foliage plants acclimatize more quickly if growth is slowed. Therefore, to better prepare plants, growers reduce fertility levels to slow plant growth.

Pests and Disease

Common pests of foliage plants include aphids, mites, caterpillars, fungus gnats, mealybugs, scales and thrips. Pest problems can be reduced with the use of pest-free stock plants. Sanitation and cultural practices also help control pest problems.

Disease problems of foliage plants are most often associated with watering practices. Over watering, usually caused by watering too frequently, often leads to root rot. Fungal and bacterial diseases can attack foliage. They become more of a problem when the leaves are wet.

Fluoride in the water is damaging to some plants. Dracaena, palms, prayer plant, spider plant, and bromeliads are susceptible. Fluoride damage is usually in the form of leaf tip burn or browning. Avoid growing media with perlite and the use of super phosphate fertilizer.

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Fertilizer Injector Systems Of Floriculture

Fertilizer injector systems are standard equipment in today's greenhouses. There are many types of injectors on the market. Basically, they work the same. A concentrate of water-soluble fertilizer is mixed in a tank. Water-soluble fertilizers dissolve completely in water and stay in solution. The concentrations of the water-soluble fertilizers are also easily adjusted. The fertilizer concentrate is then mixed with the water in exact proportions before irrigating plants. With fertilizer injectors growers can provide exact levels of nutrients.

There are a number of advantages to using fertilizer injectors. The greenhouse plants are provided with constant liquid feeding. This is especially important with soilless media that have a low cation exchange capacity. The plants are fertilized when they are watered thus reducing labor. All the plants of a particular crop receive the same levels of nutrients. This assists in producing a uniform crop. In addition, adjustments to the level of nutrients in solution can be made easily.

Calculating ppm

Nutrients in solution are measured in pans per million or ppm. Growers can refer to tables in reference books or to instructions with their injector system to determine the amount of fertilizer needed to reach a desired ppm. However, growers must also understand how to calculate parts per million (ppm) of fertilizer nutrients.

Slow Release Fertilizers

Slow release fertilizers are self- defined by their name. These products continually discharge a small amount of nutrients over a period of time They are available in two forms. One form consists of a water-soluble fertilizer held within a plastic resin or sulfur coating. The coating is designed to allow a small

amount of fertilizer to be slowly released. They have the appearance of little round beads and are sometimes mistaken as insect eggs by the uninformed. The other type of slow release fertilizer comes in a granular form. This type releases no more than I percent of the fertilizer in a 24-hour period.

The use of slow release fertilizers has declined with the increased use of water-soluble fertilizers through injector systems. Growers have a much greater control with the fertilizer injector systems. However, there are some advantages to the slow release fertilizers. Slow release fertilizers can be safely mixed with the growing medium prior to planting. Slow release fertilizers provide a more constant supply of nutrients than water-soluble fertilizers. This is particularly true when watering is less frequent. Slow release fertilizers work well when capillary mats are used to water plants. Also, slow release fertilizers can be used to extend the shelf life of plants once they leave the greenhouse.

NUTRIENT DEFIENCY

Plant quality and thus, profits, are lost if the plants cannot obtain the essential nutrients from the medium. Even if only one necessary nutrient is missing, the plant can develop deficiency symptoms. For example, nitrogen promotes the growth of green, leafy tissue. If the available nitrogen is low, the plant may take on a yellow appearance. The growth rate slows and the plant often is stunted. This happens even when all the other essential nutrients are available.

If a plant fails to receive the needed nutrients, it will show signs of nutrient deficiency. Nutrient deficiencies most often surface as an unhealthy plant appearance. Symptoms vary with the nutrient that is in short supply. Common symptoms of deficiencies include discoloration of the leaves, death of leaf tissue, and stunted growth. Because of the complex interactions of nutrients in plant processes, deficiency symptoms for different nutrients are often very similar. Laboratory tests, including the analysis of plant tissues, can be used to determine which nutrient is lacking.

SOLUBLE SALTS

contribute to the soluble salt content in the growing medium Soluble salts consist of these dissolved mineral salts. High levels of soluble salts are harmful to plants. Young plants are especially sensitive.

The damage caused by soluble salts is through a process known as reverse osmosis. As the salt concentration builds up in the growing medium, it prevents water molecules from being absorbed by the roots. In severe cases, water is drawn from the root cells into the growing medium. The resulting damage caused by soluble salts is the burning of the roots. Wilting or the death of leaf tissues follows the injury or death of the roots.

Damage from soluble salts can be avoided by preventing a buildup of soluble salts in the growing medium. A good practice is to water the plants until water drains from the container. As the water flows through the growing medium, it carries soluble salts with it. This is known as leaching.

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